Nos EUA, umas das carnes bovinas mais saborosas "Picanha" virava carne moída
Um corte de carne bovina tipicamente brasileiro vem se destacando entre as carnes exóticas e especiais oferecidas em um açougue nos Estados Unidos. Em The Butcher Shop, que fica dentro de um mercado em Arlington (Estado de Virgínia), é possível encontrar a picanha, que não é um corte comum no país, graças ao americano Ian McClannan. Ele morou no Rio de Janeiro por seis meses em 2011 e diz ter se encantado com a hospitalidade dos brasileiros e com o tradicional corte de carne.
Além da picanha, The Butcher Shop vende carnes exóticas como canguru, javali selvagem, de faisão e até filés de cobra (a píton de Mianmar, ex-Birmânia), mas estas geralmente têm de ser encomendadas com antecedência. "Antes de eu trabalhar aqui, o antigo dono servia a picanha junto com o lombo e o filé do lombo, ou seja, eram três cortes em um", diz McClannan, que, logo que começou a trabalhar no açougue, em dezembro de 2015, fez com que o corte deixasse de ser um pedido especial para estar sempre disponível nos refrigeradores do açougue. Dá dicas para clientes usarem sal grosso "Quando me tornei gerente, em abril deste ano, eu queria oferecer mais opções para os clientes, diferentes tamanhos e pesos. Minha intenção é servir uma das melhores carnes locais para quem quiser comprar, seja o cliente brasileiro ou não".
Aos que compram a picanha e pedem sugestão, McClannan explica que os brasileiros gostam de usar sal grosso. Ele sugere que o cliente deixe a carne marinando no sal grosso, corte em tiras e coloque na grelha ou, então, coloque o corte inteiro na grelha, com a capa de gordura para cima, para que ela derreta e a carne fique saborosa. O quilo do corte sai por pouco mais de US$ 30 (cerca de R$ 95). A carne vem do gado da raça angus de uma fazenda local, que também fornece outros cortes para o açougue. Ian MCClannan O açougue também trabalha com carnes exóticas, como a de faisão, sob encomenda.
Antes, a picanha virava carne moída
O investimento inicial "não foi muito", segundo McClannan, pois o corte já estava entre as carnes recebidas pelo açougue, mas não havia muita saída e "acabava virando carne moída". Ele conta que o açougue vende uma média de 13 quilos de picanha por mês (dos cem quilos de todos os tipos de carne vendidos por mês no local), o que gera um faturamento de cerca de US$ 400 (R$ 1.271). O lucro não foi informado, mas McClannan diz ser baixo. "Neste verão [nos EUA], já conseguimos triplicar o nosso lucro, comparado com o dos últimos anos", afirma o americano, que agora tem planos de apresentar a seus clientes mais uma especialidade que conheceu no Brasil: a linguiça de frango. "Estou à procura de um fornecedor que possa fazer uma receita brasileira dessa linguiça", diz. Segundo ele, a cada duas semanas o açougue recupera o valor investido no corte brasileiro, principalmente no verão (de junho a setembro), época mais movimentada no açougue.
Garantir a qualidade da carne e do corte
Na avaliação de Jie Zhang, professora de marketing da Escola de Negócios Robert H. Smith, da Universidade de Maryland, o aumento da variedade de cortes e tipos de carne oferecidos ajuda a reforçar a reputação e o posicionamento do açougue como um local que oferece cortes e carnes especiais, e pode também atrair mais clientes em busca de carnes gourmets. "Uma possível desvantagem é o fato de que essa operação pode ter um custo alto, já que é preciso garantir que a qualidade da carne e o corte sejam consistentes", afirma.
Ana Lima - Colaboração para o UOL, em Nova York
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